10 misconceptions about black skin

Demystify black skin C-care with our expert tips: Learn how to effectively protect, hydrate, and treat your black skin by avoiding common mistakes and adopting tailored routines for healthy, radiant skin.

Everyone wants to have a nice complexion. Especially us, Black and mixed-race women. But to achieve our goal, we must first avoid making certain mistakes.

1. Black skin isn’t fragile and doesn’t need much care

FALSE. Black skin has unique characteristics that make it both resilient and vulnerable, requiring specific care to maintain its health and appearance.

Black skin ages more slowly thanks to a higher melanin content, which offers natural protection against the sun’s UV rays. This additional melanin protects the skin from sun damage, reducing the risk of wrinkles and age spots. However, this same melanin makes the skin more prone to hyperpigmentation. The slightest irritation, like a pimple, cut, or scratch, can lead to dark spots that take a long time to fade.

It’s also very sensitive and reactive. It’s more likely to develop allergies and irritations in response to certain chemicals found in cosmetics and skincare products. Therefore, it’s crucial to choose skincare products containing natural and gentle ingredients like aloe vera, shea butter, and jojoba oil, which are less likely to cause allergic reactions.

Black skin tends to be drier than other skin types due to its unique structure. It loses moisture faster, especially in dry or cold climates. Good hydration is essential to maintain skin elasticity and softness. It’s recommended to use moisturizers rich in humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, as well as occlusives like cocoa butter to seal in hydration.

Due to its susceptibility to hyperpigmentation and allergies, prevention is key in black skin care. This includes regular use of sunscreen to protect against UV rays, even though black skin has a higher natural protection. Applying sunscreen with an SPF (Sun Protection Factor) of at least 30 can help prevent sun spots and maintain an even complexion.

It’s also important to treat skin issues as soon as they appear. Using spot treatments for pimples and breakouts can help minimize scarring and dark spots. Products containing vitamin C, retinol, and alpha hydroxy acids can be beneficial for treating hyperpigmentation and improving skin texture.

2. Whitening products help fight acne and spots

In the short term, whitening products (containing hydroquinone, cortisone, corticosteroids, or steroids) may seem to improve the skin’s appearance by reducing the look of dark spots and evening out skin tone. This temporary appearance of improvement is often what attracts users to these products.

In the long run, using whitening products presents many risks and can seriously damage the skin. Here’s why:

Whitening products work by inhibiting melanin production, the substance that gives skin its color and protects it from UV rays. By reducing melanin, these products make the skin more vulnerable and fragile. This weakening can lead to severe consequences:

• Burns and depigmentation: Prolonged use of these products can cause chemical burns and uneven skin depigmentation, creating lighter and darker patches, which can be unsightly and difficult to treat.
• Increased sun sensitivity: Depigmented skin is more sensitive to UV damage, increasing the risk of sunburn, redness, and skin cancer. Sun exposure without adequate protection can also lead to paradoxical hyperpigmentation, where dark spots become even more pronounced.
• Premature aging: Reduced melanin also decreases the skin’s natural protection against free radicals, accelerating the aging process. Users may notice an increase in wrinkles, fine lines, and a loss of skin firmness.

Instead of using whitening products to treat acne and spots, it’s recommended to adopt safer, more natural solutions:

• Gentle topical treatments: Use products containing vitamin C, azelaic acid, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), and retinol, which can help reduce pigmentation spots and improve skin texture without the harmful side effects of whitening products.
• Hydration and sun protection: Maintain good skin hydration with appropriate moisturizers and protect yourself from the sun with broad-spectrum sunscreen.
• Dermatological consultation: Consult a dermatologist for personalized recommendations and treatments tailored to your skin type and specific issues.

3. Black skin doesn’t need sun protection

FALSE. It’s crucial to understand that although black skin contains more melanin, it’s not exempt from the damage caused by the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays. Melanin provides additional protection by absorbing and dispersing UV rays, reducing the risk of certain types of skin damage. However, this protection isn’t absolute.

Melanin acts as a natural sunscreen by protecting the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays. For black skin, this protection is more effective than for lighter skin, which explains why black skin is less prone to sunburn and skin cancer. However, about 15% of UV rays still penetrate the deeper layers of the epidermis. This exposure can cause long-term damage.

• Sunburns: Although black skin is less likely to get sunburned, it is still possible, especially after prolonged exposure to the sun. Sunburns can cause pain, redness, and peeling.
• Hyperpigmentation: Unprotected sun exposure can worsen pigmentation issues, such as melasma or post-inflammatory dark spots. UV rays stimulate melanin production, which can make dark spots darker and harder to treat. 
• Premature aging: UV rays accelerate the skin’s aging process, even in people with darker skin. Unprotected exposure can lead to wrinkles, loss of firmness, and uneven skin texture.
• Skin cancer: While the risk of skin cancer is lower in people with black skin, it is not nonexistent. Skin cancers in people with dark skin are often diagnosed at a more advanced stage, which can make treatment more difficult.

Using sunscreen is essential for all skin types, including black skin. Here’s why sunscreen is crucial:

• Prevents sunburn and immediate damage: A moisturizing sunscreen with adequate SPF can help prevent sunburn and protect the skin from immediate UV damage.
• Protects against hyperpigmentation: By shielding the skin from UV rays, sunscreen can help prevent dark spots from worsening and maintain an even complexion.
• Reduces the risk of premature aging: Regular use of sunscreen can slow down the skin’s aging process by protecting against UV-induced damage, such as wrinkles and loss of elasticity.
• Prevents skin cancer: While the risk is lower, sun protection helps reduce the risk of developing skin cancer.

For black skin, it’s important to choose a sunscreen that doesn’t leave a white or chalky residue. Sunscreens specially formulated for darker skin tones are often tinted to blend better with the skin tone. Look for moisturizing sunscreens containing beneficial ingredients like hyaluronic acid or shea butter for a dual-action of protection and hydration.

4. Black skin adapts to all climates

FALSE. Black skin isn’t naturally adapted to all climates, especially colder and drier Western climates. These environments can affect the skin’s ability to retain moisture, leading to increased dryness and other skin issues. Understanding how these climates impact black skin is essential for adopting an appropriate skincare routine.

Black skin has a unique structure that makes it more likely to lose water, especially in dry or cold climates. Here’s why hydration is crucial:

• Increased trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL): Black skin may have a less effective lipid barrier, meaning it loses moisture more quickly. In cold and dry climates, this loss is exacerbated, leading to dry, rough skin.
• Dryness and flaking: Lack of moisture can cause itching, flaking, and areas of dry skin that can become irritated and sensitive.
• Increased risk of eczema: People with black skin are more likely to develop conditions like eczema, which can be triggered or worsened by dry skin.

To keep black skin hydrated and healthy in Western climates:

• Use rich moisturizers: Choose thick moisturizers containing humectants (like glycerin and hyaluronic acid) that draw moisture into the skin, and occlusives (like shea butter and jojoba oil) that help seal in moisture.
• Apply moisturizer to damp skin: To maximize absorption, apply your moisturizer immediately after showering or bathing, when your skin is still slightly damp.
• Moisturize regularly: In winter, you may need to apply moisturizers several times a day, especially on the driest areas like elbows, knees, and hands.

In addition to moisturizing, protecting the skin from the elements is essential to prevent dryness and irritation:

• Use a humidifier: In winter, indoor heating systems can dry out the air. A humidifier can add moisture to the air, helping to prevent skin dehydration.
• Wear protective clothing: Wrap yourself in warm, soft clothing to protect your skin from cold wind and low temperatures. Avoid rough fabrics that can irritate the skin.
• Protect the skin from UV rays: Even in winter, it’s important to protect your skin from UV rays by using sunscreen, as the sun’s rays can still cause damage and dehydration.

5. Our food doesn’t influence our skin’s health

FALSE. Diet plays a crucial role in skin health, and what we eat can significantly affect its appearance and overall condition. Certain foods, especially those rich in fats and sugars, can worsen skin issues like acne and blemishes.

Fatty foods and saucy dishes, while delicious, can increase the production of sebum, an oily substance produced by the skin’s sebaceous glands. Excess sebum can clog pores and cause breakouts.

• Foods high in saturated and trans fats: Fried foods, industrial baked goods, and certain dairy products can increase inflammation levels in the body, exacerbating acne and redness.
• Sugar and refined carbs: High-glycemic foods like candies, sugary drinks, and white bread cause blood sugar spikes that can stimulate sebum production and inflammatory hormones, contributing to acne.

To maintain clear, glowing skin, it’s essential to vary your diet and favor foods rich in nutrients that are beneficial for the skin:

• Fruits and vegetables: Rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals. For example, carrots, spinach, and sweet potatoes contain vitamin A, essential for skin tissue repair. Citrus fruits, strawberries, and red bell peppers are rich in vitamin C, which helps in collagen production.
• Omega-3 fatty acids: Found in fatty fish like salmon, mackerel, and sardines, as well as in flax seeds and walnuts, omega-3s help reduce inflammation and keep the skin hydrated.
• Lean proteins: Proteins are essential for skin cell repair and regeneration. Opt for lean protein sources like chicken, turkey, legumes, and tofu.

Water plays a crucial role in maintaining skin health. Proper hydration helps flush toxins out of the body, maintain skin elasticity, and prevent dryness.

• Drink plenty of water: It’s recommended to drink at least 1.5 to 2 liters of water a day. Water helps hydrate the skin from within, flush out toxins, and maintain a radiant complexion. 
• Incorporate hydrating foods: Water-rich fruits and vegetables like cucumber, watermelon, oranges, and tomatoes also contribute to skin hydration.

6. We shouldn’t use products from ‘white’ brands

FALSE. It’s essential to choose skincare products based on specific needs rather than relying solely on ethnic marketing. Black skin can benefit from products from non-ethnic brands, as long as they are suited to its characteristics and concerns.

The first step in choosing effective skincare products is understanding your skin’s specific needs. Here are some common skin types and their needs:

• Oily skin: This skin type produces excess sebum, which can lead to clogged pores and acne. Look for non-comedogenic, lightweight, and mattifying products.
• Combination skin: Combination skin has oily areas (often the T-zone: forehead, nose, chin) and dry areas. Opt for balancing products that hydrate without weighing the skin down.
• Dry skin: Dry skin lacks sebum and moisture, which can lead to flaking and irritation. Use rich creams with hydrating and emollient ingredients to nourish and protect the skin.
• Acne-prone skin: Acne-prone skin needs products with active ingredients like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide to treat and prevent breakouts.
• Sensitive skin: Sensitive skin reacts easily to irritants and may show redness and itching. Choose hypoallergenic and fragrance-free products to minimize reactions.

It’s crucial to read labels and understand product compositions. Here are some beneficial ingredients for black skin:

• Hyaluronic acid: Intensely hydrates the skin and improves suppleness.
• Niacinamide: Reduces dark spots and improves skin texture.
• Shea butter and jojoba oil: Deeply nourish and hydrate dry skin.
• Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs): Gently exfoliate to reveal smoother, brighter skin.
• Vitamin C: Evens out skin tone and reduces signs of aging.

Some non-ethnic brands offer products that are perfectly suitable for black skin. The key is to look for formulations that:

• Treat hyperpigmentation: Black skin is prone to hyperpigmentation. Serums and creams containing vitamin C, licorice extract, or kojic acid can help even out skin tone.
• Hydrate without clogging pores: Black skin can be prone to both dryness and acne. Use lightweight moisturizers that don’t block pores.
• Provide UV protection: Sunscreen is essential to prevent pigmentation spots and premature aging. Choose sunscreens that don’t leave a white residue.

7. It’s better to pop pimples than to leave them

FALSE. Popping pimples is a common but harmful practice that can lead to scars, infections, and worsening skin problems. It’s essential to understand why this method is discouraged and what alternatives exist for effectively treating pimples.

Popping pimples may seem like a quick fix, but this practice carries many risks:

• Permanent scars: When you pop a pimple, you damage the surrounding skin, which can lead to permanent scars, especially if the pimple is large or deeply rooted.
• Infections: Popping a pimple with unsterilized hands or tools can introduce bacteria into the skin, causing an infection. This infection can spread and worsen acne.
• Increased inflammation: Manipulating pimples can increase inflammation and irritation, making the problem even more visible and painful.
• Hyperpigmentation: Black skin is particularly prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Popping pimples can lead to dark spots that take months, if not years, to disappear.

Instead of popping pimples, it’s better to adopt safer and more effective treatment methods:

• Topical treatments: Use products with active ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or retinol. These substances help reduce inflammation, unclog pores, and speed up the healing of pimples.
• Gentle cleansing: Wash your face twice a day with a gentle cleanser suitable for your skin type. Avoid harsh cleansers that can dry out the skin and worsen acne.
• Hydration: Use a non-comedogenic moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated without clogging pores. Well-hydrated skin heals faster and is less prone to irritation.
• Anti-pimple patches: Hydrocolloid patches can be applied directly to pimples. They absorb pus, reduce inflammation, and protect the area from bacteria and manipulation.
• Dermatological consultation: If acne is severe or persistent, consult a dermatologist. A professional can prescribe more powerful treatments, such as topical or oral antibiotics, retinoids, or hormonal treatments.

If you’ve already popped a pimple and want to minimize the damage, here are some tips:

• Disinfection: Immediately clean the area with a mild antiseptic to prevent infection.
• Hydration and protection: Apply a healing cream containing vitamin E or panthenol to help the skin heal.
• Sun protection: Use sunscreen to protect the healing skin from UV rays, which can worsen hyperpigmentation.

8. You don’t need to apply cream if you have oily skin

FALSE. It’s crucial to moisturize your skin, even if it’s oily. Moisturization helps maintain the skin’s water balance and prevent various skin issues. Here’s why and how to properly moisturize oily skin without worsening sebum production.

Why moisturize oily skin?

• Maintain water balance: Oily skin can often be dehydrated. Dehydration pushes the sebaceous glands to produce more sebum to compensate, which can worsen the appearance of oily skin. Adequate moisturization helps maintain the skin’s water balance and reduce this overproduction of sebum.
• Strengthen the skin barrier: Moisturizers help strengthen the skin’s barrier, protecting it from external irritants and preventing water loss. A stronger skin barrier reduces the risk of irritation and inflammation.
• Prevent premature aging: Moisturization is essential to maintaining skin elasticity and suppleness. Well-hydrated skin is less prone to fine lines and premature aging.

For oily skin, it’s important to choose products specifically designed to hydrate without clogging pores or making the skin feel heavy.

• Lightweight and non-comedogenic creams: Opt for lightweight, water-based, and non-comedogenic moisturizers. Gel moisturizers, lotions, or fluids are often good options for oily skin.
• Specific ingredients: Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, which intensely hydrates without weighing down the skin, and niacinamide, which regulates sebum production and improves skin texture. Ingredients like aloe vera and green tea are also soothing and beneficial for oily skin.

The oily look in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) is due to excess sebum production. Here’s how to regulate this production:

• Exfoliating care: Use gentle exfoliants to remove dead skin cells and unclog pores. Chemical exfoliants containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are particularly effective for oily skin.
• Purifying masks: Incorporate purifying masks into your skincare routine, such as clay masks that absorb excess sebum and deeply cleanse pores. Use these masks once or twice a week to avoid drying out the skin.
• Toners and serums: Toners containing sebum-regulating ingredients like zinc or salicylic acid can help control shine and keep pores clean. Lightweight serums with ingredients like niacinamide can also be used to regulate sebum production.

Oily skin care routine:

• Gentle cleansing: Wash your face twice a day with a gentle, sulfate-free cleanser to avoid drying out the skin and triggering compensatory sebum production.
• Daily moisturization: Apply a suitable moisturizer after each cleanse to maintain the skin’s balance and prevent dehydration.
• Sun protection: Use a non-comedogenic sunscreen every day to protect your skin from UV rays. Sunscreen is crucial to preventing damage and premature aging.

9. You need to scrub your face hard to remove spots

FALSE. FALSE. FALSE! Scrubbing your face too hard can cause significant damage, weakening the skin instead of improving it. Gentle and regular exfoliation is key to removing dead skin cells without damaging the skin barrier.

Dangers of aggressive exfoliation:

• Irritation and inflammation: Scrubbing too hard can cause irritation and inflammation. The skin can become red, painful, and sensitive, exacerbating existing problems.
• Weakened skin barrier: The skin has a natural protective barrier that retains moisture and shields against external irritants. Over-exfoliation can damage this barrier, making the skin more vulnerable to infections, dehydration, and environmental aggressors.
• Increased risk of dark spots: Irritating the skin can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in black and mixed-race skin. This can cause new dark spots to appear or worsen existing spots.
• Increased sensitivity: Over-exfoliation makes the skin more sensitive to skincare products and environmental conditions, increasing the risk of allergic reactions and irritation.

To avoid these problems, it’s crucial to opt for gentle exfoliants and use them correctly:

• Types of exfoliants: Choose enzymatic or mild chemical exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), which dissolve dead skin cells without abrasively scrubbing the skin. Gentle physical exfoliants with fine, non-irritating particles can also be used in moderation.
• Exfoliation frequency: Limit exfoliation to once or twice a week. This frequency is sufficient to remove dead skin cells without damaging the skin. Avoid combining multiple exfoliants in one session.
• Gentle technique: When applying physical scrubs, use gentle circular motions with light pressure. Don’t scrub too hard, and don’t leave the product on the skin for too long.

10. There are creams that darken the skin

FALSE. The idea that some creams, particularly those intended for white skin, darken black skin is a myth. In reality, several factors can contribute to skin darkening, but standard moisturizing creams are generally not responsible. Understanding these factors is essential to managing and preventing hyperpigmentation.

• Sun exposure: One of the main factors contributing to skin darkening is exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays. UV rays stimulate melanin production, the pigment responsible for skin color, leading to hyperpigmentation and dark spots. This is why it’s crucial to use sunscreen daily, regardless of skin color. 
• Hormonal imbalances: Hormonal fluctuations can also cause hyperpigmentation. Women may notice skin darkening during periods of hormonal imbalance, such as menstruation, pregnancy, or menopause. Medical conditions like melasma, often triggered by hormonal changes, result in brown patches on the face. 
• Stopping the use of whitening products: People who have used whitening products containing hydroquinone or other depigmenting agents may notice skin darkening after stopping these products. The skin may react by producing more melanin to compensate for previous inhibition.

Some people believe that common creams like Nivea make the skin darker. However, these creams are formulated to hydrate and protect the skin and do not contain ingredients that cause hyperpigmentation. Skin color changes attributed to these creams are often related to other environmental or physiological factors.

• Moisturization without pigment: Moisturizers like Nivea are designed to nourish the skin deeply without affecting melanin production. They contain ingredients such as glycerin, natural oils, and waxes that help retain moisture and protect the skin barrier. 
• Safe ingredients: Moisturizers from reputable brands are formulated according to strict safety standards and do not contain substances that negatively alter skin pigmentation.